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Tag: DIY

I’m back to 3D printing

Published by Silveira on 2025-01-09

In 2016 I got a Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer (model number 15365) for $200 USD. That was incredibly affordable for a 3D printer back then. That printer only gave me disappointments. I was never was able to print anything completely with it. My main problem was adhesion. The only help I got was online forums (there was a really active Facebook group about it). Debugging and trying different solutions without any success was not fun. It ended up just accumulating dust and occupying space in a corner.

Years later I found that my local library had working and calibrated 3d printers that I could just use. Just upload a .stl file and they would just email me when the print was ready. Also, for free. I tried it and it worked really well.

Example of 3D printer available in Fairfax Libraries
My head, 3d printed at my local library. I had my head 3D scanned by MakerBot in 2014.

So I filled some paperwork and donated my Monoprice Select Mini 3D Printer to the library. They also had a lot of other cool technology programs going on. From now on if I need to print something I know I could just use the library. I promise myself I would not mess with 3D printers themselves anymore.

Now in 2025, someone in the neighborhood was looking to donate their Monoprice Maker 2 Ultimate 3D printer. Just when I thought I was out, they pulled me back in. I got it from his hands, bought a spool of PLA Filament and started playing with it.

Monoprice Maker 2 Ultimate 3D printer

Technical specifications:

  • Maximum build volume: 200 x 150 x150mm
  • Filament diameter: 1.75mm
  • Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
  • Maximum Nozzle Temperature: 250°C
  • Maximum Build Plate Temperature: 100°C
  • Printing Speed: 20 ~ 150 mm/sec
  • Positioning Accuracy: XY Axis: 0.011mm, Z-Axis: 0.0025mm
  • Supported Filament Types: ABS, PLA, PLA Pro, TPU, TPE, PET, Metal fill, Wood fill, etc.
  • Supported Software: Wiibuilder, Cura, Simplify3D, Slic3r, Kisslicer
  • Supported File Formats: .STL, .gcode, .OBJ
  • Print Interface: USB, microSD card
  • Input Power: 24 VDC, 10A
  • AC Adapter Input Power: 100 ~ 240 VAC, 50/60 Hz
  • Maximum Power Consumption: 200 watts
  • Dimensions: 15.0″ x 13.4″ x 16.5″ (380 x 340 x 420 mm)
  • Weight: 33.1 lbs. (15kg)

I started just printing whatever gcode it had on its sdcard. My first prints were just adhesion failures again. That’s when my previous experiences from before were handy. I re-applied painters tape on the print bed, then the prints started to get further and further before failing. Then I got my first complete 3d print.

My first 3d print

Then I started trying with Thingverse stl objects, cutting them in Ultimaker Cura and printing my own gcodes. Here is the catch: the Monoprice Maker 2 Ultimate is a rebranded Weedo F150s. After I configured Cura to use a Weedo F150s the gcodes produced started to print with success.

Gearbox Keychain XL

The printer was modified to have this box with the filament spool over it.

USB cable extension holder.

A Cat phone holder.

Flexi cat.

I have now printed this flexi cat that took almost 6 hours. Do you know what I never got it printing correctly? That 3DBenchy that I always tried to print on my first printer. On this one it always causes the printer to shift layers and fail. Surely with some fine tuning of the parameters I can get it right but the lesson learned here is that sometimes a simple vase is a much better goal. Also, sometimes a 3D printer have more success printing larger objects rather than small ones.

Notes on replacing a LG washer door boot seal

Published by Silveira on 2024-07-23

It is a simple fix and at the same time the most difficult fix I have ever done.

Washer model is WM3670HVA.

There are several video tutorials online but this one from RepairClinic.com was the one that really helped. It’s not for the same model but most of it applied the same way.

Many tutorials show how to replace the boot seal without disassembling the machine. These did not work for me. Disassembling the machine was relatively easy compared to trying to put the seal and inner ring inside the door.

Part number MDS47123619 did not work for me despite the description saying it was compatible. Not sure if incompatible or if I was installing it wrong. Ultimately part number MDS657369-IJ5 worked. It costed 50 dollars on eBay.

I did buy and used a 383EER4004A washing machine spring expansion removal tool. It’s a specialized pliers to expand springs. It helps immensely with the most difficult part of putting the expansion rings back around the seal. It costed 10 dollars on Amazon.

While putting the inner expansion ring, it’s easier to have the ring closed already and then using the pliers to expand the spring and putting the ring in place. The tension of the spring would always bend the hoop holding the spring. Using locking pliers I could bend it some more so I would have about one minute before it would bend it open.

The inner door boot seal should be done in a way that the water falls into the drum. I was doing it wrong, creating a gap and the water leaks when the machine operates. This also makes it harder to close the ring. The inner door boot seal should “bite” the white part of the drum and not “hug” it.

Using gloves would have saved me from several small cuts in my hands. Specially when dealing with the heavy front door.

This was a surprisingly difficult fix. Ultimately the replacement worked and the machine was back in business.